Wednesday, July 15, 2009
A Look Back
To these images, please add the sweetest smelling air, the pungent aroma of sourdough, the thrilling taste of incredibly brisk mountain streams, the awe of grand vistas - one folding on top of another, the soothing feel of moss, the hilarious laughter of ferns, the clicking of a camera shutter, the steadfast pursuit of reindeer sausage, the dispassion of moose being photographed, the daring boasts of city-slickers, the tears of old friends well met, the panic of confused reservations, the changing of much money, the adoration of human artistry, the taste of salmon bathing in smoke, the elusive nature of long hidden gold, the sound of rocks crashing against one another in a watery bath, the shout of parents for boys "lost" in the woods, the boredom only tarmac can bring, the shattering bark of glaciers, the joy of discovery, and the healing of one human heart - too long gone from home.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Closing Thoughts
Upon our return to Flatland, we often been asked what was our favorite part of the trip. For everyone, the train ride was nothing short of epic. If I can get them to send up one more post, I'd like to have each family member to share a memory / experience.
For me, it's so extremely difficult. The train ride was sensational and a definite highlight. It was also very important to me to see my old neighborhood and walk along the paths I trod as a child. As I have said, reconnecting with Craig B, a classmate 39 years ago, a dear friend today. That is a huge experience that will impact me for years to come.
And now I'm working on some ideas to share with a few companies / organizations up in Alaska. I think there are some opportunities for tourist attractions to offer their customers a richer experience. If they'll listen to me I might get some consulting work out of it and maybe another trip or two Alaska on someone else's nickel. Here's hoping.
Stay tuned, a little bit more to come.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
My Apology
In a recent post over there I commented on the near-nefarious actions of the Transportation Safety Administration. I stand by that post, but I must now also add this: on the whole I appreciate the job TSA is obliged to perform.
For example, how would you feel if the pudgy, balding Kansan (the one with the red shirt and swollen feet) trying to board Alaskan Airlines Flight 138 from Anchorage to Chicago was carrying not one, not two, not even three, but FOUR knives in his backpack??
Now mind you well, IF something like this were to happen (as extraordinarily hypothetical as it sounds) it would all be the result of a perfectly innocent souvenir orgy in the waning hours of his once-in-four-decades visit to the mightiest state in the Union. But such explanation, if it were offered to Federal Authorities, would still lack any persuasive force.
So, again still speaking hypothetically, I would like to thank TSA's Officer Schnickel for her grace and gentle certainty as she ushered me out of the screening area, returning my weapons to me only after I had crossed the Line of Demarcation separating bad passengers who may not fly from those good passengers who may. And then, from there, I'm gushing with gratitude to dear Ula (a name which looks and sounds a lot like "ulu" - a knife favored by Native Alaskans and tourists alike - which lies at the heart of the problem) of Alaska Airlines who resolved my peril by checking an additional bag and waving the customary $50 extortion fee for said overage.
So, in the theatre of my mind where only such extravagances are allowed to percolate, I am brimming with gratitude to the good men and women of the TSA who nip calamities in the bud and to the agents of AK AIR who help idiots work around their idiotry.
Thanks America, I heart you.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
How to Kill An Hour at The Airport
Heading South
I don't hear so well in noisy joint - which this is - but all of a sudden, everyone in the Smith family got a big smile on their faces. Turns out there was a song playing... "Going To Kansas City". Wow, couldn't have planned that. In 12 hours we'll be going there and in 24 hours we'll be there. But for these last few hours "we're not in Kansas anymore". And in my heart, I may never be again.
Friday, June 26, 2009
Everyone Is Happy
The Final Countdown
The picture above explains this day in full - why I married this gal and why I had to come back to Alaska.
Webcams in Portage and Whittier
link to our a cruise in Prince William Sound.
We drive by Portage Glacier before entering the Anton Anderson tunnel to arrive in Whittier.
Cam 1
Popping out the tunnel on the other side, here's Whittier.
Cam 1
Fish Finish
May We Recommend...
Basking in the Noon Day Sun
Surprise Glacier
How Interesting
So be glad we don't have more lay-overs like this or else all my posts would be long, tedious posts of great scholastic insight and little real popular interest.
June 26
Happy AKniversary, Baby!!!
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Thursday, June 25, 2009
Kids These Days...
Long and Winding Road







Greetings from Girdwood Base Camp
Joshua took his bear knife with him so we're not worried.
Trains, Autos, ... And that other one...
Highly Recommended
Plan B
Webcams - Anchorage and Girdwood Area
Thursday we wander around the Anchorage area.
Here are several links to webcams in the Anchorage area. Be sure to check in occasionally and hit F5 to refresh the image.
Cam 1 looking southeast
Cam 2 looking north across Turnagain Arm toward Wasilla
Cam 3 looking east
Cam 4 another southeast view
Cam 5 looking north from downtown toward Mt McKinley
Cam 6 looking down 4th Ave where we'll be doing some souvenir shopping
Cam 7 looking over Lake Hood just east of the airport - world's busiest float plane "airport"
After goofing around in Anchorage for a while, we're off to our Bed & Breakfast in Girdwood at the base of the Alyeska Mountain Ski Resort (no skiing, though). Here are a couple cams with different vistas of Girdwood.
Cam 1 four miles south of Anchorage on the Seward Hwy leading to Girdwood. Watch for us!
Cam 2 base of the Alyeska tramway
Cam 3 further, much further up the tramway.
Of course, all this time, we'll be keeping our eye out to the west - across Turnagain Arm - at the smoldering Mt Redoubt volcano.
Cam 1
Cam 2
Cam 3 not sure when this one will come back up - it was knocked out by an eruption in the Spring
Webcams on the route from Fairbanks to Anchorage
We say goodbye to Fairbanks today as we board the Alaska Railroad train to travel from Fairbanks to Anchorage through Denali / Mt McKinley. We depart Fairbanks at 8:15 - no sourdough pancakes today!
Here are links to webcams that will give you a glimpse of the area we are passing through and what the weather is like. Tune in often and hot F5 to refresh the image.
A view of parking for McKinley Park (passing by here around 12noon). Train tracks on left - watch for us! Same location, looking south. A view of the Alaska Range from Summit (the village, not the top of the mountain!) (passing by here around 1pm).
A view of McKinley from the south across famed Wonder Lake.
A view of the Mt McKinley from Talkeetna (passing by here around 4pm).
Here is a cool webpage that gives you webcams all along the passage from Fairbanks to Anchorage. Click on "Camera" near the top of the page. Then click on any of the small blue cam icons to see current road conditions. The train route parallels the Parks Highway all the way.
Finally, we arrive for our stay in Anchorage around 8pm. A view of Anchorage looking southeast toward the Chugach Mountains.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Triple-header
You can't see them, but in this marsh we saw a moose, a beaver, and two swans with their signets (not "goslings" as our fauna-challenged announcer said).
[Yes, I'm terribly sorry for offending the spelling sensibilities of my world-wide readership. I've gotten 5 hours of sleep each night for a week and on a 12 hour train ride I missed spelling CYGNET correctly. Again, I'm sorry if this made you lose a spelling bee in Karmina Burana or wherever they challenges people to know the difference between the homonyms "cygnet" (a baby swan) and "signet" (an object with an identifying symbol - a sign - on it, such as a signet ring). I am double embarrassed by my mistake because I am shopping for land in Kansas in the area of the Marais Des Cygne River (Marsh of the Swans). Good grief.]
Glee Ride
Me Ride
Free Ride!
She Ride
One More Memory
In the picture above, the vehicle on the distant right is Mr Gid getting his Andretti on in an empty parking lot. I wonder if he'll remeber where and when he learned to drive??? CHS
See You Later
Craig B came to see us off - what a champ. A great friend I never knew I had. Of course we arrive, brimming with enthusiasm, only to discover we have no reservations. Oh snap!! Wait, here they are - for Friday... What's today? Wednesday. Oh boy.
All is well, they've shifted us to today and we're moving right now.
And we trained away in the rain.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Bless Be The Ties That Bind
Tonight we dined with the Whisenhant family, including Greg who is my age, as well as other luminaries from my childhood, the Butlers and the Schillings. There are very few of our readers who would understand and appreciate the value of renewing those old relationships so I'll keep this brief. For me, it was a chance for an all-grown-up little boy to sit as an adult with the people that I admired as a squirrely little kid. Elizabeth told the grown ups to sit at one table and for the kids to sit at another. What a delight it was to be able to sit at the same table with the Whisenhants, Schillings, and Butlers. Time flies... and I'm not at the kids' table anymore.
And with that, our visit to Fairbanks comes to a close - and our discovery of the rest of this magnificent place begins. Good night.
A Good Day
Alaska is ALIVE!!
We weren't 5 miles out of Fairbanks before we started seeing moose - and lots of them. Probably saw over a dozen altogether - bulls, cow, and calves (that's daddies, mommies, and babies to you non-natives). At one place we saw a lake a beaver made with a dam, we saw the beaver, and enjoying the fresh green shoots of grass in the lake was a moose mom and toddler.
It was a pefect day up river. We biked, hiked, swam, and by the grace of God we shot off some fireworks!!!
Great Day!!!! Now we head to dinner with old family friends and then pack for our 12 hour train ride tomorrow.
Monday, June 22, 2009
Another Perfect Day
The days started, as you know, with us at the Midnight Sun ballgame that ended perfectly and in perfect light. We caught a few hours of shut-eye, behind our heavy opaque curtains, before rolling out for another day in Alaska's interior.
We wrapped up sightseeing and souvenir shopping downtown, got some much coveted smoked salmon strips (know lovingly by all as "squaw candy") and Noah even got some Alaskan roasted coffee beans - which he swears are qualitatively different from those roasted anywhere else in the world Whatevuh.
We made a quick run through UAF (that's the University of Alaska / Fairbanks, to y'all outsiders). I was quite surprised that we were able to see south to the Alaska Range and based on map legend laid out before us, we enjoyed the rare privilege of seeing Mt McKinley in the far distance due south.
Then off on the Riverboat Discovery. It's one of those touristy things that are part of any true Alaskan heritage or visit - and we're very glad we did.
We wrapped up the day with dinner at Craig & Cathy B's home (along with Ryan, and Chris, and Joey, of course). Craig and I were classmates for 6 year until I moved to "the states" in 1970 and that's where our friendship rested until I tracked him down last summer. How can I say this, Craig is as good a friend as I could expect if we have lived in the same town all these years. He (and his family) are generous, loving, and have an incredible gift of making strangers feel like they belonged in their home. I am deeply moved by the way love is made known.
All that was enough, quite enough, for a good day, but we squeezed in a quick run on down the Richardson Highway to see the US armament at Eielson Air Force Base. Wow. We're in good shape folks. On the way back, we picked up a little armament of our own - a few fireworks to shoot off on our trip to Chena Hot Springs tomorrow.
Now, along the way, I stopped by a small, roadside lake just to soak up a little more local flavor. Alyse, Isaac, Noah, Gideon, and I all got out, stretched our legs, skipped a few rocks and headed back to the van. Joshua was missing. Alyse said, "I chewed him out for running through the woods with his knife out." (see posts on that topic below) WHAT?? I jumped out of the van and started yelling and whistling for him. You can imagine the thoughts that were going through my mind. He eventually sounded out and eventually (later) drug himself out of the woods about a quarter of a mile from where the rest of us had walked around, announcing, "I'm gonna kill something!" He used to be so mellow.
Good night.
On A Clear Day...
We're up on College Hill at UAF. It's a rare day when the visibility allows you to see to Mt McKinley - today is one of those days. We'll have better pictures to post up later, but this is our live moment to share with you. CHS
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Sunday, June 21, 2009
As The Sun Sets (Pt 2)
The first base side of the "stadium" is much more sparsely populated at the same time. Why? Apparently the west facing first base side is far less desirable at the Midnight Sun baseball game because (as Craig B just warned me) THE SUN GETS IN YOUR EYES AS IT SET AROUND 1AM. Who knew??
As The Sun Sets (Pt 1)
I Was Glad When They Said Unto Me...
On this Father's Day I have brought my bride and four sons to the Lord's House where my father brought me in my youth.
Wow!
Webcams - Fairbanks
A view just across the Chena River looking back south toward downtown. The church on the left is St Joseph's Catholic Church. Clark was born in the hospital sponsored by the church just off-screen to the left (that's where the ground got kissed).
A view from 1st Street looking north across the Chena.
A view from University Hill looking out south over the vast Tanana Valley.
A view of the "finish house" on the Birch Hill cross country ski area. In the 60s, the Smith family spent hundreds of Saturday afternoon sledding down rugged Birch Hill. Now, thanks to the wonderful efforts of family friend - the Whisenhants, Birch Hill is a competition ski area and a focus of much winter activity.
A view of the University of Alaska museum.
Taking Alaska As It Comes
Today is a BIG DAY is Fairbanks - the Summer Solstice - a celebration of The Midnight Sun. We hear people greeting each other. "Happy Solstice". It's a big deal (and, to be honest, it's why we are here at this time). The town crackles with enthusiasm for all the visitors and activities. There was a huge 10k Fun Run yesterday that ended at midnight to begin the day of the Midnight Sun. And of course, as I have chronicled elsewhere on this page, the day ends with the 103rd Annual Midnight Sun Baseball Game which starts at 10:30pm and continues through midnight - all with no artificial stadium light. (The sun skirts just below the horizon, "setting" at about 12:45am and rising again after a nap shorter than I usually take.) In the meantime, there are activities everywhere celebrating the spectacle of this far northern site. As always, the beauty of the earth is the main story here, humans just get to participate occasionally. And that means if it rains on Fairbanks' big day, so be it. This grand old town has seen much tougher conditions than a day of drizzle!
And the Smith Family will enjoy it as well. We'll enjoy another Alaskan breakfast somewhere, then visit University Baptist Church where I'll give a brief accounting for what I've been up to for 40 years, then off to lunch at Pike's Landing and the Midnight Sun Festival downtown this afternoon. Rain or shine, it's a beautiful thing to spend another day in Fairbanks.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
A Day That Will Live In 'Famy (you know what I mean)
Here's a REAL quick sketch of the day - and for once - I'm not exaggerating. (And I think most of this is documented in real time below.) Mostly I'm documenting this for my memory's sake. I don't know if I'd believe it.
All times are "ish".
5:30a board plane in Anchorage
6:00a head north
6:30a spot Mt McKinley
7:ooa land in Fairbanks
7:30a check into hotel
8:30a walk to breakfast (the long way - sorry)
10:00a Joshua, Noah, Isaac head back to hotel / Gid, Lyse, and I walk downtown to get rental car. (I kiss the ground I was born on.) Walked down city streets that flood (literally and figuratively) with memories. Gid spotted a beaver dam, for real, right in the middle of the city. That's why they get props for being eager! In the first 24hrs we've seen moose, raven, sled dogs, moose poop (I just said poop), and plenty of other evidence that this isn't Kansas anymore.
11:00a clean up and go see "Aunt" Ethyl - the greatest blessing of the whole trip. WOW
12:00n drive to childhood elementary school (Nordale) and the walk to my old house in Hamilton Acres (all this walking / hiking / gold panning explain the reason for the picture of my knee below)
1:00p greeted back at Nordale by a truly great new / old friend Craig B
1:30p buy gold pan and shovel and head north to Fox to find our share of Alaska's gold
2:00p drink deep from Fox's fresh spring water - alas no gold, YET
2:30p head half-way up Elliot Hwy toward Livengood ('cuz we are!). Slow goin' and we don't make it all the way, but dang, the land is gorgeous - all the boys were impressed. We got out and got up on the Alaska pipeline (really, pictures to come).
5:00p back at hotel, clean up, go to Alaskan Salmon Bake (as discussed below)
8:00p souvenir shop in Pioneer Park (aka: A67 / Alaskaland)
9:00p go to WalMart to get what we lost or forgot - short trip, then poolside to wrap up an incredible FIRST day in Alaska.
10:00p well, that's now. It's bright as day outside but our little peepers have been open so long, I think we could sleep now or noonday. Lyse is already conked out. The boys are next door exaggerating to each other what they could do if they really want to.
I think the six of us laughed more with each other and at each other than we have altogether in years. I cried like a baby at seeing Ethyl. That's just exactly the kind of day it has been. And trust me, both sides of that ecstatic emotional coin make it all worthwhile. Thanks for checking in. Oh, believe me - MORE TOMORROW!!
On second thought....
"I'm going on a bear hunt!"
You're Kidding Right?
That's right, Hot Dogs.
Oh wait, good call Gid. More salrib for me
CHS
The Top of the World
Happily it is a bright.sunny day in the Heart of Alaska.
Its Tougher in Alaska
NeverLand of the Midnight Sun!
Not really. We'll be 'home' early Saturday morn. Should pick up our perfectly planned itinerary from there.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Clean Flight
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Slow Start
(As I write this, we just caught another delay. We're sitting in the airplane for another hour and arrive with 1 short hour in OHare to make our flight to Alaska - if it is not delayed.)
At this rate, the only pizza we're gonna get is at Sbarro in the OHare food court. The irony is, Sbarra started in Chicago... So I'll guess we'll be "eating local" anyway.
The picture is of my bride catching a few winks... and dreaming of real Chicago pizza.
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Have You Seen This Man?
But if you see this guy wandering around the Midnight Sun Fest on Sunday, June 21, stop him and say hello to an old classmate.



















